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When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, tucked prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.